Rome, usually a city on the verge of an urban breakdown, suddenly seems on the cusp of getting it together. A refreshing breeze of possibility, not just this summer’s burning garbage, is blowing through the city. A Bulgari hotel will soon open in the center of town, along with other brand-name accommodations that promise a reinvigoration of luxury in the Via Veneto area.

The city is hoping to host World Expo 2030, a potentially transformative prize that could improve infrastructure and reimagine Rome’s rugged eastern neighborhoods — though even now they percolate with energy. Whether it be sumptuous palaces or new restaurants eager to break free of the carbonara yoke, Rome seems eager to stop resting on its wilted laurels.