I’m currently in Italy, sitting in a little bar tucked on a side street in the Navigli neighbourhood of Milan, Lombardy, mere steps from the touristy stretch of buzzy restaurants and shops along the Naviglio Grande canal. The early-afternoon vibe here is quite similar to what I’ve experienced during my past three weeks in Italy, most of it spent in the neighbouring territory of Piedmont. 

The hot July sun is beaming across the half-dozen tables outside while 20-odd daytime revellers sit inside, where the music is loud and the air conditioning hums along; most are on couches at coffee tables, or chairs at tables, with a handful of others at the bar next to me. People come in and out at a good clip for a quick pull of espresso, while the bartender is kept busy putting out Apérol spritzes and Campari sodas, along with local white and red wines for those opting to hang out.