Thea Duncan used to peel the fat off her prosciutto. Now she blissfully recalls the first time she tried lardo. Cassandra Santoro once subsisted on juice cleanses and quinoa. These days, she starts every morning with a cornetto.

And a few years ago, Skyler Mapes and Linda Sarris rarely ate pasta out of concern that it would make them feel heavy. Ask them today, and they’ve probably eaten pasta three times this week.