Tanned young people. Vespas. Cliques of old women. Tobacco shops. Old men playing cards. Stepping into Camogli is less like going back in time, and more like tasting the future of travel: living like a local. But before you fall in love with the Italian Riviera’s neglected middle-child (Camogli has approximately 260,000 Instagram hashtags to its name, while its cousin Portofino has over 853,000); allow us to provide a little context.

While everyone knows about Portofino and Cinque Terre (to the point where travellers are now learning local slang with the specific intention of scoring a date), and even as tourists plunder beyond Rome and Venice seeking out hotspots like Polignano a Mare there are still a few covetous coves where you can say ciao to the crowds.