The Maremma, south of Grosseto, comes to an arty end in Capalbio, a medieval citadel that graces even more Southern Tuscany. Its undulating hills and rosemary-scented scrubland run down to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Two lines of defensive walls encircle the scenic village: centuries ago, they were built to protect the locals against pirate attacks. 

My day begins on these ancient walls that offer a breathtaking ocean view. I slip into the charming Borgo soon after dawn. The air is balmy all around. There’s an atmosphere of quiet waiting for the splendor of the rising sun. A mysterious white marble head of Emperor Hadrian embedded in the wall suddenly peeps out.