It’s not normal for us to review a restaurant within three months of its opening. We like to give a new restaurant time to breathe and figure itself out. But when a star of the New Jersey food scene opens a new restaurant, it’s hard to sit around and wait.

Felina is Anthony Bucco’s first starring role as restaurant co-owner as well as executive chef. After Felina opened at the end of December, I visited three times in late winter and spring, and I’m pleased to report I was right to break the rule and visit so soon.