It’s easy for beach bumming enthusiasts to forget that 1.5 million people reside on the Italian Riviera–that’s nearly half the total visitors that touch down on just the Cinque Terre each year. Yes, several small Ligurian towns hibernate come winter.

But there are also cities like postcard-perfect Chiavari, with a population that exceeds 27,000, that don’t fall asleep once the umbrellas and sun loungers have been dismantled. Situated halfway between Genova and Cinque Terre, Chiavari is a perfect jumping point for exploring Liguria’s heavily trodden destinations like the said “Five Towns” and Portofino–but it also warrants your time and attention.