Celebrating 20 years next month, this wonderfully cluttered family-operated favorite evokes New York, Italy, and a bygone era when independent pizzerias were the heart of the community. Rocco’s thin yet sturdy and chewy, well-toasted crusts with puffy edges make the old nostalgic and the young ecstatic.

On our recent visit, we went all in with pizza (the menu is of Wikipedic depth with six pages of pastas, risotto, sandwiches, and Italian classics)—dining on melt-in-your-mouth pepperoni, a meat-laden The Dominator and Rocco’s sublime Via Port Alba (starring true mozzarella di bufala).