I don’t know whether San Diego has gone through some sort of culinary looking glass, but we seem to have entered an era where Little Italy is flush with great non-Italian restaurants, while every other urban neighborhood suddenly has a fine Italian place to call its own.

In Barrio Logan, the place is Ciccia Osteria, a pasta-making oasis that opened earlier this year on Logan Avenue with a painted floor medallion premising, “casual fine Italian cuisine.” It's a contradiction in terms that nearly makes sense on these blocks, where we’re more likely to find a line out front of custom Chevys with tricked out paint jobs than the valet line of German cars typically seen outside fine dining restaurants.