Chef Fabio Trabocchi's biggest competitor is himself. When it comes to haute Italian cooking in Washington, there's Fiola Mare in Georgetown and his original Fiola in Penn Quarter. For a few years now, I've been talking up the former.

But guess what? Senior is out-cooking junior right now, the evidence arriving with a treat from the kitchen that's as much architecture as "benvenuto": a candle-lit tower supporting a delicate cup of warm prosecco zabaglione and gingery oysters, the richness of the frothy custard cut with lemon zest. There's no more arresting seafood carpaccio in the city than Fiola's pink brick of Himalayan salt carpeted with sliced Maine scallops, pansies and a smear of ramp pesto.

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Source: https://www.washingtonpost.com/