“The wind that comes off the sea in Calabria is magic,” says Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, Louis Vuitton’s master perfumer, of the region he has visited for the past five years to create the new men’s fragrance Sur La Route. “In February, during the bergamot harvest, it’s mild in the morning, and there are so many smells coming from the grass and trees.

When I press the skin of the fruit, and the oil comes to the surface and combines with all those other smells in the air, it’s like a painting to me.” There are certain raw ingredients that are inextricable from place: Grasse has the finest roses, Guatemala produces the most fragrant cardamom, Sumatra is known for the richest and woodiest patchouli. Bergamot, a knobby yellowish citrus about the size of an orange, grows almost exclusively in seaside orchards in Calabria, at the toe of Italy’s boot, where it’s been cultivated since the 17th century.