When things in Italy return to some semblance of “normal,” I know straight where I’m headed — to Via del Governo Vecchio in Rome. The “street of the old government” per translation — in reference to the former papal government office at No. 39 — offers the best of Rome squeezed into just 450 meters (about a third of a mile), a few steps from Piazza Navona.

With well-curated vintage shops, lively aperitivo bars, and some of the city’s best pizza and gelato spots, Via del Governo Vecchio is a splendid little stretch along which to slow down for a few hours and take a break from the Eternal City’s sightseeing circuit, which can feel a tad obligatory, even on the best of days.