In Rome, even something as proverbially simple as a "piece of cake" – or tart – can have hidden layers of history, resilience and even mischief tucked away between the crust and the cream. The iconic Crostata di ricotta e visciole (ricotta and sour cherry tart) is the perfect example – with a creamy layer of sweet whey cheese, generous coating of jam and thick shortcrust concealing a secret.

"It is a stratagem, a work of trickery," said Ruben Bondì, a Roman Jewish chef, who became famous for his TikTok and Instagram videos in which he leans out of a balcony and asks his neighbours, "What do you want to eat?" He then prepares anything from salt cod roll sandwiches to zucchini risotto in a makeshift kitchen set up on top of an air-conditioning unit, often with the help of his little nephew, cousin or sister.