Ask the folks in Maryville what the big new restaurant sensation is, and they’ll very likely tell you it’s Jaboni’s Pizzeria. However, you won’t find it sitting along any of the town’s high-traffic thoroughfares. Rather, it occupies a small subsection of a larger, repurposed retail space in the Kroger Marketplace neighborhood. The Grub Spouse and I found it easily enough, though, having heard it was definitely worth trying.

The interior space has a distinct pizzeria vibe, but the aesthetics are thoughtful and well executed, finding a comfortable spot on the spectrum between upscale bistro and casual sidewalk cafe. If you plan to order a pie or other entree from the menu, they will seat you in either the front dining area or the rear space near the bar. If you’re just looking for a slice, you’ll need to order that at the counter, and from there, you can either enjoy it at a separate counter space across from the kitchen or get it to go.