In the wake of a pandemic, social and racial unrest to say nothing over an upcoming election, few people have felt much like popping the bubbly this year. The United States may be divided, but there’s one thing many of us can agree on: we need a little lift these days.

Enter Lambrusco—in my mind, the perfect wine for the times. Weighty enough to have some gravity and stand up to anything on the grill, but light and happy enough to get you through the summer slumps, it’s a pop of fizz you can enjoy without feeling frivolous.