The glory of wine today is its unparalleled diversity. Never before in history would you be confronted in a wine shop with the range of choices available now. Some may suggest this poses a problem: The endless options are too intimidating. But I think the selection offers a wonderful opportunity for exploration.

It may be that Italy grows more different kinds of grapes than any other wine-producing country. Next we’ll look at three Italian red wines made of unusual grapes. The three wines I recommend are: G. B. Burlotto Langhe Freisa 2017 (Bacchanal Wine Imports, Port Chester, N.Y.) $24; Elena Walch Alto Adige Schiava 2018 (Walch U.S.A., Sausalito, Calif.) $17; Foradori Vigneti Delle Dolomiti Teroldego 2016 (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York) $25