Opened in December in the space most recently occupied by Galisteo Bistro, Trattoria A Mano has transformed the long, narrow, high-ceilinged room into a lively gathering spot for good food, good drink, and good company. The decor is eclectic, combining iron window grilles, oversized photos of ’50s Italian haute couture and hands kneading dough, a wall of quotations about food, and a flower-bedecked bicycle.

A curtain of wood and glass rolling pins hangs above the glass partition that separates the large, long open kitchen from the tightly packed seating area in a way that shouldn’t — but does — work. The friendly vibe is reinforced by the excellent waitstaff and gracious maître d’.