Every August, when I return to my family's hometown in the remote southeast of Italy, the first thing I do is dive into the sea. Then, I head to an unmarked shop in the outskirts of town to buy some of Margherita Cavalera's exquisite ricotta. 

In Italy, ricotta is typically eaten as a filling for pasta or cannoli. Here in Racale, Margherita's ricotta is eaten by the spoonful — without even salt or olive oil. Light and pillowy in texture, it's like tasting a cloud of sheep's milk.