“This is the prize,” said executive chef Doug Psaltis. “It’s the funnest project I’ve been involved with, and so personal in many ways.” Fun seems to be the operative word at Pizzeria Portofino, which quietly opened Monday (reservations, via Tock, are now live) at 317 N. Clark St.

The latest restaurant from Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, Pizzeria Portofino features sophisticated pizzas, pastas in full and half portions, some charcoal-grilled fish and shellfish and — what is likely the big draw — a large outdoor terrace overlooking the Chicago River.