When it comes to food, Jacksonville is quite the melting pot for such a small town. Offerings range from the usual fast-food restaurants and home-cooking havens to Thai, Mexican and barbecue. Even Italian. Roma Italian Restaurant in Jacksonville -- in a strip center with plentiful parking -- looks rather nondescript. Inside, the walls are a deep plum, subdued and a bit elegant. Diners can choose table or booth. The sophistication continues with white-cloth covered tables.

Our server brought drinks and a basket of big, golden, soft and yeasty rolls. I asked for an order of the Alla Panna Sauce ($4.95), which is, I think, a light creamy tomato/Alfredo sauce mixture. The sauce has the tang of tomato with the smoothness of a creamy Alfredo sauce, and it goes perfectly with the roll.