If for you the word "walnut" calls to mind nothing but sundae toppings and salad dressings, then now is the time to expand your horizons. Like, right now. Rouse yourself to investigate the walnut liqueur called nocino.

Why the rush? Deep winter is prime season for a dark delicacy that’s bottled in summer and traditionally released around Christmas; in cold weather, its spicy bittersweetness sticks to the bones and the soul. And if you try it, you will not be alone: The elixir is suddenly prominent at popular cocktail bars and with home mixologists. It’s no longer the purview of just snooty bartenders and kerchiefed nonnas.