A creative crop of pizzerias is popping up around Washington, from rectangular pan pies at Sonny’s to New York-style slices at Turu, and Wisconsin-esque rounds at Nicoletta. Now two native Italians, Antonio Matarazzo and chef Matteo Venini, are offering their spin on “neo-Neapolitan” pizzas, sandwiches, and street snacks at Stellina Pizzeria near Union Market.

The duo are alums of the finer-dining Lupo group; Matarazzo was a managing partner and Venini the chef for Lupo Verde, Lupo Verde Osteria, and Lupo Marino. Although the 88-seat pizzeria is fast-casual in format, the menu goes far beyond your average pie shop—think tuna crudo with pickled shallots or a crispy octopus-and-burrata sandwich with escarole, black olives, and chickpea purée.