I was utterly charmed by Palermo when I was there less than a week ago. I admit to have been somewhat wary of it last time I visited.
It was a combination of the bumper-to-bumper traffic; the accommodation (which although pretty, was smack bang in the middle of the Palermo of old, with its rather run-down buildings and slightly sinister narrow sparsely populated streets); and the fact that I probably hadn't done enough research (so ended up in the night time market in "la Vucciria" with all sorts of shady characters eyeing me off suspiciously).
Fonte: L'italo-Americano