Earlier this year, an online recipe for feta pasta went viral. It was born in Finland a few years ago, but climbed its way into international kitchens only recently, spilling on to the video-sharing platform TikTok, then Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. The original clip has been viewed 600 million times. It even caused feta to sell out in grocery shops.

All that had to be done was bake a block of feta with cherry tomatoes, garlic and olive oil, before mixing in cooked pasta. “So simple!” supporters chimed, “so quick and easy.” Others, like me, deemed it a claggy, cloying mess, where any flavour was lost, never mind the efficiency.