One of my favorite street foods from Rome is supplì al telefono—fried and breaded rice croquettes the size of a small child’s fist. They are similar to arancini, the world-famous Sicilian rice balls, but less exuberant and simpler, without the rich core of ragù or all the fancy saffron and peas. They are more reserved and restrained, and we are all the better for it.

Roman supplì, as a category, are simple. The rice is plainly cooked with a little chopped onion and tomato sauce, perhaps with a little ragù mixed in and wrapped around a small piece of mozzarella cheese before being breaded and deep-fried.