Among the great wine countries of the world, Italy is one of the most diverse. The sheer variety of grapes and styles offered within the country’s 20 regions can seem intimidating at first to those looking to master its nuances, but it’s also the reason why somms are continually intrigued by Italy’s wines.

We asked some of the country’s top wine professionals what they love about Italian wine and why. The question was met with long, complex responses. Answers touched on the sense of place offered in favorite regions and grape varieties, the longevity of structure, and the wines’ incredible affinity for food. It’s clear that Italian wine has stolen the hearts – and palates – of top somms everywhere.