Let’s start with a cliché. The sun is finally out in grey London, and everyone is already complaining that it’s too hot. What to order? Rosé obviously. Only Provençale will do: the palest possible, with three ice cubes for good measure.

Not only does it make the wine stay cooler, but it dilutes it down enough so that you can drink it by the gallon. Suddenly, “rosé all day” is the only option; who can forget when the conquest started, some time around 2012, when it seemed like a Pink Army on the move?