Those who went to Dattilo during its long reign as Whittier’s destination, special occasion Italian restaurant, can be forgiven for doing a double take, or even a triple take, upon entering the new Ravello Bar & Grill. Where Dattilo had a certain edge of Las Vegas to its décor — all that Roman statuary, urns, fountains and copies (somewhat inexplicably) of art works by the Dutch master Breughel are long gone — replaced with a clean, modern, understated elegance. (And yes, I do wonder where all the Dattilo tchotchkes went. It must have been quite the garage sale.)

Going to Ravello, which continues to be a swatch of elegance in generally casual Whittier, during the day is to walk into a sun-washed room, that would do just fine in a piazza in the north of Italy. At night, the edges soften, but the place is still dramatic and very Italian in its style. If anything, it’s more Milan than Rome or Florence. Milan is where the fashionistas bring a level of style to restaurants, that make khaki clad American feel like circus clowns. It’s wear Armani or die. Though Prada and Alaia do just fine.