You could be forgiven for strolling past Dopolavoro, tucked along a mellow stretch of Spring Street where the Historic Core transitions into the Fashion District, without realizing what it is. Just a few hundred square feet, the shop quietly debuted in December, minus the attention that larger grocers have received when arriving in Downtown Los Angeles. Some press coverage dubbed it an “Italian deli,” a characterization that makes Max Steffanelli, co-owner of Dopolavoro and the attached restaurant Terroni, shake his head.

“There are Italian products here, yes, but also the best of Spain, from the U.S., from Britain,” he declared. “It is not just a shop for Italian food.” The assessment is an honest one. Step inside Dopolavoro (which translates to “after work”) and you’re faced with a huge refrigerated case loaded with hillocks of gourmet protein of varied origins.