My colleague Jeff Amlotte makes excellent lasagna. It’s in the vein of the 9 x 13 pans my mother used to make, heavily sauced noodles with curly edges, a filling of ricotta cheese and plenty of melted mozzarella on top. It’s deeply satisfying, and it got me thinking about lasagna in Los Angeles.

There are plenty of places offering the Americanized, cheese-heavy lasagna that I like to call Garfield-style. Sunday Gravy in Inglewood serves one of the better versions. But there are a number of chefs making recipes from their Italian hometowns, made with fresh pasta and without any shredded mozzarella.