At an Italian restaurant in this rural town — where deer are known to use the crosswalk because they’ve apparently learned cars will stop for painted lines — Stan Yagi pointed to three employees: one tossing, one saucing and one delivering pizzas.

“Felon. Felon. Felon,” he said. Sandy Pickett, who has worked at the 30-year-old restaurant for 28 years, pursed her lips. “I call them ‘co-workers.’” The trio (bank robber, arsonist, thief) shrugged. It’s no secret that Yagi hires ex-convicts. In this northeastern corner of California, the man from Hawaii specializes in giving people a second chance.