by John Mariani

One peek into the dining room of La Masseria--or now, in good weather, just a glance at the outdoor tables on West 48th Street--shows that after eleven years it is still one of the most popular and eminent restaurants of any stripe in the Theater District.

And, after my recent dinner there, I find its culinary excellence has risen right along with its success, driven by owners Giuseppe "Peppe" Iuele and Enzo Ruggiero with chef-partner Giuseppe Coladonato.

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