“The move” is a turn of phrase I use quite often. “What’s the move at Tsbuaki?” I would ask a fellow writer who has been there, or I might text “Get the eggplant parm. That’s the move,” to a friend going to Ggiata. The move is what you should order if you’re going to a restaurant for the first time.

It’s a confident and can’t fail recommendation, but also an assessment of the best a restaurant has to offer. It can be a standout dish, a list of appetizers, or a specific ordering combination (the sandwich, a blood orange soda and a bag of Tim’s at Roma Market, for example), but the move often stretches past the food.