In the sometimes snobbish, often ostentatious world of gourmet food, there are seared foie gras with rhubarb tart, hamachi with sea urchin vinaigrette, and kumamoto oysters with mango sorbet. 

And then there’s Italian salami. Italian salami? How does this processed meat with a gnarly chub, fermented tang, and winelike aroma belong in the élite company of connoisseur cuisine?