Pillowy,Pillowy, golden-brown, and soaked with olive oil, focaccia offers a shiny, substantial meal all by itself. The dimpled Italian flatbread, rich enough to be eaten plain but often found in a pizza-adjacent form with tomatoes and cheese or whatever produce is is in season, has been proliferating at a number of D.C. restaurants, markets, and bakeries since before the pandemic began.

Exceptional squares have appeared at rustic Italian all-day cafe Piccolina and beloved Mediterranean lunch counter Green Almond Pantry (currently on hiatus pending a move). High-end full-service kitchens like Tail Up Goat, Lutèce, and Modena have workshopped their own versions. Focaccia works well as a takeout item, and it’s also gained popularity with home bakers during lockdown, second only to sourdough. Here’s everything you need to know about finding focaccia around the District.