On a Zoom call, Mike Friedman looks every bit a chef with his short-sleeved whites, black beanie, and a neatly trimmed beard that frames a frequent smile.

But nearly a year into the novel coronavirus crisis, the driving force behind the Red Hen sounds more like the creative director at an ad firm when he explains how the Bloomingdale neighborhood fixture known for its warm service, wood-burning grill, and rich Italian small plates has managed to chug along despite keeping its dining room closed for the past 10 months.