The Italian sub, laden with provolone, cold cuts such as Genoa salami and mortadella, shredded lettuce, tomato, hot peppers, and vinaigrette, is a wonderful thing—if you live in New York City or Providence or any other city with a thriving Italian-American community.

In Washington, you have to work a little harder to find one. If you do, it might contain trespassers like mayo or roasted red peppers. I’ll routinely drive a half hour to get my fix at the Italian Store in Arlington. It’s good, but not north-of-the–Jersey Turnpike good.