In Nick and Kayla Amoroso’s La Padella, Media has yet another casual, welcoming neighborhood restaurant and bar. In the kitchen, this husband-and-wife duo excels at Italian-American classics modernized and retooled for today’s sensibilities.

Nowhere are the twists more evident than in chef Jim Stigale’s escarole soup, its one giant meatball (rather than many mini ones) resting in a sea of broth enriched by Parmesan rind. Also noteworthy is the veal Parmesan, which is cut thick to maximize juiciness — and the veal Marsala gets a bone-in spin in lieu of medallions.