New outfits in soft pastels, the vinegary smell of egg dye, and chocolate bunnies commonly herald the coming of Easter. But in West Virginia’s Italian bakeries, anise-flavored bread is equally prized. It’s a centerpiece of the Christian resurrection celebration. For the staff at Tomaro’s Bakery in Clarksburg, Easter bread represents not only the promise of renewal but also a connection back to the Tomaro and Brunetti families in Italy.

The scent of anise seed permeates Tomaro’s Bakery beginning about three weeks before Easter every year. But the licorice-flavored seeds don’t come from the local grocery story, says John Brunett, fourth-generation co-owner of Tomaro’s. (The ending vowel in the family name was dropped when the Brunettis came to America.)