BY MATT KIROUAC

The gist: In regards to Italian food, Bar Lupo is an irreverent shot in the arm. The stylish, casual Italian "pub" takes a fresh approach to an omnipresent cuisine that makes it hard for newcomers to stand out. Courtesy of pedigreed owner Brian O'Connor (formerly Maple & Ash, North Pond) and chef Marcos Ascencio, the adept team at this River North opener breathes fresh air into everything from red-sauce staples to contemporary decor.

The food: The crux of Ascencio's cooking is an ethos of soulful Italian cuisine, albeit prepared and presented in clever ways. This is most evident in Bar Lupo's lively "pub" aesthetic, which echoes throughout the food menu and lends a distinct, upbeat air to dishes like baked garlic knots, sausage pinwheels, potatoes Bolognese and heartier main plates inspired by both Italy and Chicago's Taylor Street.

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Source: https://www.zagat.com/