For chef John Torrento, there is no way but the old way. Torrento is the chef at the 104-year-old Melillo’s Tavern in central Lowellville, and like the restaurant’s authentic tin ceilings and century-old Italian wood paneling, his methods and recipes are a throwback to the days when the phrase “hand-made” was an assumption rather than a selling point.

Born in Long Island, N.Y., Torrento grew up in and around his family’s butcher shop in a neighborhood heavily influenced by the Italian heritage of many of its residents. Working at the shop, Torrento learned how to use meat grinders and hand-case sausages made with his family’s blend of spices.