I thought I’d move past all the new year hoopla by visiting someplace old that brazenly flaunts an old-school bent, too: Enrico’s Pizza & Restaurant. Here’s how old-school Enrico’s is: The only beer offered on tap is Bud Light, and it’s $8.50 a pitcher.

Tucked away in the inevitable suburban strip mall, Enrico’s — which has been in the homemade pasta and pizza business for 30 years — is the kind of idiosyncratic, family-run establishment that seems to be getting more rare by the day.