So many new restaurant dishes are designed to smack you in the mouth with flavor. They have layers of fried things with lots of cheese and bacon, or they're spiced and sugared and smoked and charred so they get the pleasure centers of your brain busy and lit up. Which can be a fun trip. 

But no layered dish of bold flavors comes close to the depth, the soul, the warming realness, the fully developed taste sensation of classic Italian dishes, such as how they're done at Forno Osteria in Hyde Park and their new location in Montgomery. Less like a joyride, more like a long kiss with someone you've loved a long time.