Served on a crackly round of house-baked bread, layered with ham, salami, roast beef, provolone, and mozzarella, the muffuletta at Valle’s in Memphis is a baroque and sloppy beauty, leaking oil and vinegar and joy.

A quiet man with a shy and impish smile, Louie Valle dresses his take on the New Orleans sandwich with mushrooms and green peppers, bound by what tastes like a homemade version of Wish-Bone Italian dressing. Presented on a foam plate with a handful of Ruffles, priced at seven bucks and change, it’s one of the most satisfying sandwiches I’ve eaten in the past decade.