by Maria Berry

It's Monday morning. Steve Paternoster, owner and self-proclaimed "Head Italian" of Scalo Northern Italian Grill, mainlines caffe americano as he holds back-to-back meetings with one group after another at his celebrated restaurant, a cornerstone of Albuquerque's Nob Hill since 1986. Some are there seeking his legendary philanthropy, some to discuss other business.

I'm there to learn more about the upscale eatery that in February dished up two exceptional food events for the annual NM Italian Film & Culture Festival. Steve has no secrets, as he overlaps one meeting with another, graciously making introductions and inviting the latest arrivals to pull up a chair and eavesdrop, or even chime in with the discourse.

Scalo is Steve's longtime home away from home. He's been associated with the restaurant almost since Chef Tom White conceptualized and founded it, becoming General Manager in 1993, a partner in 1996, and sole owner in 2005. Steve makes a point of crediting Tom White and Scalo co-founder Greg Atkin with his education as a restaurant executive. "They made it possible for me own Scalo and I think about what they taught me every day. Now, this is where I live," he says. "Home is where I sleep." After a head-spinning career including everything from newspaper reporter to CEO of the Central NM YMCA, Steve has come back to "live" full-time at Scalo. "The restaurant gives me the platform to do everything I want to do for my family and for my community. I make a good living here. My staff makes a good living here. We give our patrons a quality dining experience, great service, and authentic Northern Italian food. Most importantly, Scalo allows me to serve the community, to make a positive difference, especially for kids. I'll do anything for kids."

So, what sets Scalo apart from other Italian restaurants? The answer lies not only in the leadership of one of New Mexico's most successful entrepreneurs, but also with his proud Italian family tradition. It's family tradition even down to the décor, where grand sheets of hammered copper preside over the open grill. "My great grandfather was a coppersmith," Steve explains. "The copper is a tribute to him." And then there's the food. "We serve real Northern Italian food," says Steve. He notes that it's not the trendy, so-called "Tuscan –inspired" fare that fills the menus of chain restaurants and fast-food places. "A good part of our menu is based on my grandmother's recipes," he explains. "In fact, there are old family stories that go along with many of our dishes." The Paternoster family roots are in the far northern Italian city of Trento where German, Swiss and Slavic influences marry Italian tradition and define its cuisine of hearty soups, rich cheeses and the region's signature smoked ham, or speck. "If it's not authentic, it's not happening on the menu," says Steve as he makes special mention of Tom White's northern Italian penne e salsiccia – a menu staple from the beginning and a perennial customer favorite. But what's a great menu without a great chef? Steve can't say enough about his Executive Chef, Garrick Mendoza – and neither could patrons of Festival 2016, by the way! Chef Garrick was classically trained by renowned celebrity chef, Lidia Bastianich, a recognized virtuoso of (her native) northern Italian fare. "Scalo is a perfect fit for Chef Garrick's talent and passion," notes Steve. "I would pit him against any Italian chef anywhere east of New York City. Anywhere! He's that good." The attentive staff members, many of whom have been with Scalo for years, the lively, bright atmosphere, the attention to detail, fresh ingredients . . . they're all responsible for keeping Scalo Northern Italian Grill thriving for the past 30 years. "We jam," says Steve. "And we jam in style!"

Source: Italy in New Mexico