I like port cities for the same reasons some people hate them. Immigrants from far-off places bring life to the streets and create a market for exotic foods that eventually merge with the local cuisine. I feel a warm embrace in the dim light of Genoa’s caruggi and am drawn to the pangs of adventure when, on a stroll I turn and realize I’ve found a Creuza, a narrow path to the sea.

All this darkness in the busy alleyways and the creatures attempting to thrive in them is balanced by the opulence of the Rolli Palaces, Palazzi dei Rolli, a short walk away. If I’ve piqued your interest in this fine destination, I will tell you how you can reserve a modest apartment in a palace and where to shop, dine well on the traditional cuisine, and buy Genovese specialty foods to eat inside if you so desire.