In 2018, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo celebrated half a century of DOC recognition. The beloved style of red from the center of Italy has long solidified its status as one of the country’s enduring viticultural touchstones. For good reason: Winemaking here traces its roots back to ancient times — a local tradition dating back to the Roman Empire.

But despite this legacy, American wine drinkers have a lot to learn about the region. Occupying rugged and dynamic terrain between the craggy peaks of the Apennines and the breezy shores of the Adriatic, these grapes have a lot to say. Take a taste and have a listen.