Tuscany and Piedmont dominate the wine headlines, but Italy is blanketed by vineyards producing world-class labels that are virtually unknown beyond its borders.

Wine enthusiasts may be familiar with blockbusters such as Brunello di Montalcino and Barbera d’Asti, but many have never tasted Sagrantino di Montefalco⁠—one of Italy’s boldest, most tannic reds that comes from the quiet hills of Umbria⁠—or Lacryma Christi, a wine produced on the volcanic slopes of Mt. Vesuvius and the closest existing relative to the vinum once quaffed by ancient Romans.