Every year, Cesaria — a 93-year-old nonna from Sardinia — rolls out her rare Lorighittas pasta, made only in Morgongiori. The meal is being prepared for All Saints Day, which is celebrated on Nov. 1 across Italy. Lorighittas look like twisted hoop earrings, and it’s a laborious effort to get the recipe just right.

The pasta is served with a chicken ragu, made of onion, garlic, parsley, white wine and tomato passata.