Piedmont. Or Piemonte. Whichever way you say it: hard two-syllable, American-style or lilting with three syllables like an Italian, the word carries mystical qualities. It conjures visions of fog-shrouded hills, white truffle-sniffing dogs and noble wines.

Most wine lovers associate Piedmont with the famous reds of Barolo, but as anyone who has visited the region knows, it’s large, complex and full of surprises. A thousand books could be written on Piedmont. For now, let’s start with the basics.